The Perfect Paradox of Derek Lam
In the course of their studies, SCAD students learn to master the dualism of design, the yin and yang of fashion. The yin is passion, intuition, creativity — the art of fashion. The yang is the business of fashion — the branding and strategy. Both are essential to greatness in this profession, and no designer so perfectly balances this polarity like SCAD Étoile, Derek Lam.
Derek’s collections defy ordinary description, compelling journalists and fashionistas to employ oxymoron when describing his work. At shows and boutiques, I have heard his work earnestly described as classically contemporary, uncommonly versatile, boldly nuanced, impeccably raw, and according to Runway, “minimal and dramatic in equal measure.” In the world of us mortals, minimal is generally thought to be the opposite of dramatic, but Derek is no mere mortal. He makes the impossible wearable. What’s his secret?
I think it has something to do with the complex sources of his creative inspiration. So often, Derek’s muses are the dynamic characters of film and literature, from Liz Taylor in National Velvet, to Rick and Ilsa of Casablanca, to the American goddess of prose Joan Didion. Derek’s collections demonstrate such beautiful frisson because his inspirations are so human.
When Derek first visited SCAD in 2011 for SCADstyle, he shared a bit of wisdom that every student and young designer reading this should heed. He said, “You can’t just show the work. You need to tell the story behind the work.” (I always tell our students: This emphasis on story is why your SCAD professors make you do research and deliver so many presentations!)
All designers have to be ready, at a moment’s notice, to enchant their clients with a story, and Derek knows how to invent characters and scenes that animate the work in the mind of the client. Derek and his partner, CEO of Derek Lam Jan-Hendrik Schlottman, never stop thinking about their client — and as a result, they have helped transform the industry, which is why he’s worn by first ladies and leading ladies, millennials and managing directors.
Their influence can be seen in the very structure of SCAD FASHWKND 2018, which took place earlier this spring, including the SCAD Atlanta Fashion Showcase, a highly stylized departure from the more orthodox runway show, which is heir to the innovations in production design that Derek and Jan have made in launching their many collections over the years. It is my hope that all our SCAD students and graduates can learn — from his inimitable career and example — to seek inspiration in unexpected places, embrace the energy of opposites, and be prepared to enchant clients with a story. SCAD loves Derek Lam!
